Sunday 28 January 2007

The Trip

Jenny and I travelled to Egypt with my parents, Lois and Tim, to tour the main sites of this historic country with Insight Tours. We left Edinburgh on December 27, 2006 and flew back on January 4, 2007. In between, we flew in a few more airplanes, drove by coach, sailed by cruise ship and by sail boat, and walked a lot.

This site contains just a smattering of the hundreds of photos we took on our amazing trip. However, there are so many that Days 1-5 are on this page, while Days 6 & 7 can be seen by clicking "Older Posts" at the bottom of this page. Enjoy!

Day 1: Temple of Philae and felucca ride on the Nile

Our first day began only hours after arriving in Cairo. We arrived at our hotel at 4am and left for the airport again at 9am to fly to Aswan. Our very first destination was the Temple of Philae, built on an island in the middle of the Nile. After the construction of the High Dam, the temple actually had to be moved to avoid losing it under water. It was hand-sawed into hundreds of pieces and moved to higher ground, only about 400 yards from its original location.







The Temple of Philae, from the period of the Greek occupation of Egypt.


To finish the day we enjoyed a felucca ride on the Nile. The weather during our trip was quite cool, but did not detract from the beauty of the country.


On our flight to Aswan we met the head of Vodaphone retail in Egypt, Bassel. He told us that not only is Egypt not a politically Muslim country, it is also home to many moderate Muslims. Though 90% Muslim, Egpyt is home to many Coptic Christians. This was the view from our hotel window.


The Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan. "Cataract" literally means "obstruction," and refers to the rock formations, common at Aswan, that cause the Nile to twist and turn.



Kind of a combination Magi/Santa Claus deal outside the hotel.

Day 2: Abu Simbel and Temple of Kom Ombo

Abu Simbel is a one hour plane journey inland from Aswan. It has its own airport servicing just this site, which is a pair of temples built by Ramses II - one for him, one for his wife, Nefertari. Of course, his is much bigger. The facade comprises his image replicated four times, depicting four stages of his life. At the southern boarder of his kingdom, these temples served both a religious and a military purpose.




Imagine would-be attackers encountering this as the first thing they see upon entering Egypt.



Next stop, Sudan. Geographically, yes. In reality, no.




The Temple of Kom Ombo, between Aswan and Edfu.


The pharoah being annointed by two gods.

Thursday 25 January 2007

Day 3: Temple of Efu

The Temple of Edfu is dedicated to the god Horus, the son of Isis and Osiris. Like all Egyptian temples, its basic structure is meant to depict the two banks of the Nile river. The pharoah responsible for building a temple is usually depicted on the facade, bringing gifts to the gods.

During our early morning walk to the temple, the Muslim call to prayer could be heard all around us as it was issued from all of the surrounding mosques. The magnificent, imbellished intonations of no fewer than 5 mosques reverberated around us all at once.


Our guide, Assem, was an Egyptologist and described the otherwise hidden meaning of various hieroglyphics.


Horus.


Pictures, for a little "baksheesh" (tip).




Day 4: Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's Funeral Temple and Luxor Temple

An early view of Luxor Temple, to which we returned later in the day.


One of the hundreds of Tourism and Antiquities Police posts stationed everywhere tourists might be.


Our approach to the Valley of the Kings started early in the morning and was, like most of our mornings in Egypt, fairly hazy. Still, our excitement began to build early. This valley has over 30 tombs excavated, though only some are open to the public. Unfortunately, no pictures are allowed inside the amazingly well preserved chambers, but nothing could dampen the spirit of discovery we could feel as we entered these underground pyramids.





Queen Hatshepsut was the first woman to rule as Pharoah. During her reign she had this funeral temple carved out of the hill rock. Only last year, after 60 years of excavation and restoration, were all three levels finally reconstructed.








Luxor Temple, by day and by night. The sphinxes in the bottom picture used to line a 3km stretch of road between Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple.


As with many Egyptian monuments, the flooding of the Nile over time had buried Luxor Temple under many layers of silt and sand. This mosque had been built, unawares, right on top of the temple.



The Boat and Environs

We sailed on the Nile, for three of our tour days, from Aswan to Luxor. Though incredibly polluted, the Nile has always been at the heart of Egyptian industry. Life-giving for the ancients, electricity-generating for the moderns, this long, calm strecth of water was fittingly at the heart of our visit. It is at the heart of Egyptian history, shaping everything from temple architecture and mythology to contemporary politics.



The view from our rooms was directly onto the Nile.


Life on board: calm cruising, loading via a precarious plank, and a tight squeeze through a lock.




This was the first time we'd seen scenes like this up close and not just on Sunday School colouring sheets.


This towel crocodile was just one of the special touches that greeted us nightly on the boat.


Some things can always be counted upon. Even Luxor, ancient city of kings, seat of Egyptian mythology, and historic Nile trading port, has an Irish pub, a McDonald's and Coke. Hooray for Internationally Standardized Products.